If you go on eBay there are dozens of listings for pictures of 5090s for the MSRP with the description “humans don’t buy”. I love it ✊

This is the exact opposite of my experience. We’ve been using codium in my org and 9/10 times it’s garbage and they will not allow anything that is not on prem. I’m pretty consistently getting recommendations for methods that don’t exist, invalid class names, things that look like the wrong language, etc. To get the recommendations I have to cancel out of auto complete, which is often times much better. It seems like it can make up for someone who doesn’t have good workflows, shortcuts and a premium ide, but otherwise it’s been a waste of time and money.

It’s been a while since I’ve printed but I think both my sidewinder and voron do this. I don’t remember having it after switching to abs. Painted on supports and wider extrusions helped a ton if I remember correctly. Good luck!

I can’t remember if I reloaded a previous save or fast traveled out of there, but there is a way to heal down there I believe

It could be a lot of things. Temperature is a big one, are you letting the bed heat up completely for a consistent amount of time before each print, could heat be impacting your measurements, some things measure different when heated a bit? You probably aren’t printing enclosed, but my voron for example expands upwards almost an entire layer over the first hour of printing. Is there an intermittent air flow that could be impacting how hot your bed really is? Have you verified there is no slop or backlash in your z lead screws and connections? I had decent results on my sidewinder using POM anti backlash nuts. Same for the stability of your measuring tool. Have you checked that it’s not z tilt from turning off the motors between prints?

Honestly if your going to go through all this effort to make this work, and already have a pi, I would suggest instead upgrade the control board to something with extra fan headers, led heads, etc and switch to klipper, there have to be guides out there for your specific printer

Powering the fan from gpio pins probably isn’t going to work out well either, they are 3.3v and 5v. Powering the fan from the PSU is going to be similar to powering a pi off it, I believe you should step the voltage down to what each needs, where the fan is 24v I think the pi is 5v. Your PSU is probably 115 or 220 v. For connectors I would expect to have to redo them yourself with micro fit, molex, jst or w/e you want and can get. On some of mine I just did single pin molex on the pins of the white female connector for fan headers, it doesn’t lock but it works if you don’t have a lot of movement. This page is awesome for connectors info https://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/common-jst-connector-types/

Per https://help.prusa3d.com/article/xbuddy-and-loveboard-electronics-wiring-mk4_413095 it looks like you dont have any fan headers, you might be able to repurpose the unused ambient sensor header but no clue sorry. You might try splicing off the part or hotend fan? If you really wanted to use the dc input you might need a voltage step down buck converter or something depending on what your PSU is putting out

You might be able to but you really shouldn’t. At the best you wouldn’t have control over fan speed. Find the wiring diagram for the board and use a fan header

Oh hey I kinda helped get this started in a very round about way! Nice to see the fluid integration, maybe if I do the mainsail one, someone else will do it a better way lol. I’ve not been printing much lately but set spoolman up a while ago on the pi running my voron and it’s been great.

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I’ve had under extrusion, caused by too high speed or pressure advance settings look like this, does it show up if you slow down?

One I don’t see people mentioning is the walking dead saints and sinners. I haven’t played part 2 yet but I put a lot of hours into the first one

That last point is a big one, for me putting 30 hours into a single VR game feels like putting 100 into a pancake.

I had similar problems on my sidewinder x1 that had two lead screws, honestly I would recommend skipping the v rollers completely and go straight to something with linear rails or modding some on

I second every bit of this. My first printer was a sidewinder I upgraded like crazy and converter to klipper. Ended up just wishing I started with a corexy. Mine had a bit of a bend in the x gantry that took me forever to figure out and was not possible to compensate for. Went to a 300mm voron 2.4 afterward and have been super happy